Communing with the endangered forest and seabirds amid the emerald rainforests and precipitous coastal cliffs on the Hawaiian island of Kauai.
Sunset
Edited by Bruce Anderson. Photograph by Kamil Bialous.
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The Hero’s March
Searching for the ghost of Russian novelist Mikhail Lermontov (1814-41) in the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia.
The Washington Post Magazine
Edited by David Rowell. Photographs by Oleg Gritskevich.
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Letter from Abkhazia
A journey through a Russian client state on the Black Sea.
Harper’s Magazine
Edited by Christopher Cox. Photographs by mirzOyan.
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Mongolia Rising
Mongolia strikes it rich on gold and coal.
The Washington Post Magazine
Edited by David Rowell. Photograph by Lauren Knapp.
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The Elwha River Runs Free
The Elwha was dammed a hundred years ago. Then in 2011, the feds began tearing down the river’s two dams, to the delight of the Lower Elwha Klallam Indians, who have fished the river for centuries.
The Washington Post Magazine
Edited by David Rowell. Photos by Chris Wilson.
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Strange Paradise
Ruled over by druggie tyrant Manuel Noriega for seven years, and occupied by the US military for nearly a century, Panama is still dotted with torture chambers and ominous military installations. Which is exactly what makes it a primo tourist destination.
The Atlantic
Edited by Amy Meeker.
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The Wheels of Life
Facing down my demons on an excruciatingly tough bike ride through the green hills of Dominica, a tiny island nation in the Caribbean.
The Washington Post Magazine
Edited by David Rowell
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…
Shanghai by Bike
In a booming city mad for the automobile, cyclists are second class citizens. But it’s still a joy to ride the streets, especially when your guide is an industrious pimp.
Sierra
Edited by Marilyn Snell.
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Under the Sheltering Sky
Writer Paul Bowles spent most of his adult life in Tangier, Morocco. But when you search for his ghost there, what you find is the soul of the city.
The Washington Post Magazine
Edited by David Rowell.
Republished in Best American Travel Writing 2004.
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